Fashion week to bring together 84 designers

As many as 84 designers, established and new, will showcase their works at the upcoming edition of the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW)


New Delhi: While all participants get a chance to display their designs in the exhibition area, 61 select designers will showcase their collections on the ramp in 40 shows over five action-packed days.

The Autumn/Winter 2008 edition of the India's biggest business of fashion event is scheduled for March 12-16.

"This year we received an overwhelming response from the designers who wanted to participate in the 11th edition," said Rathi Vinay Jha, director general of Fashion Design Council Of India (FDCI), which organises the event.

"After great deliberation we have managed to draw a list including both reputed and budding designers who have the right blend of creativity and commercial viability," she said in a statement Friday.

"Designers are the core of the fashion industry and play an important role in shaping fashion trends in India," Jha said while announcing the names of participants and the show schedule.

This year, designers will be showcasing their collections under three broad categories - Contemporary, Synthesis/Heritage and Creator.

Under the Heritage segment, designers will exhibit their collections that celebrate and promote India's unique legacy of clothing, craft and textile. Synthesis will showcase apparel that attempt to merge Indian sensibilities with international ethos.

The Contemporary category will incorporate ultra prêt clothing in accordance with international standards.

The Creator section gives a free hand to the style gurus to create something original. Designers will blend innovation with unique technique to produce masterpieces.

Said Sumeet Nair, executive director of FDCI: "Keeping in mind the business angle, we try to incorporate a mix of established names in the Indian fashion scenario with young talent who have a potential of making it big in times to come."

"WIFW is the culmination of months of toil and resolve of the designers who work relentlessly to produce their collection and we work closely with them to bring to fruition their hard work."

Apart from 10 budding designers, the forthcoming edition of WIFW will see 15 new participants - the highest number the show has seen so far.

Herve Leger

Max Azria figured out 51 ways to tie a bandage before he presented his Herve Leger collection Sunday.

A skintight, bandagelike dress is the signature of the Leger label, which the Los Angeles-based Azria - of BCBG fame - recently resurrected by putting many celebrities in vintage versions of the formfitting yet surprisingly flattering silhouette.

This was the first time a new line was presented at the Bryant Park tents to editors, stylists and retailers along with likely customers Joss Stone, Mandy Moore, Sophia Bush and Padma Lakshmi.

Azria never strayed from the bandage formula but he tried it in more fabrics, including chunky knits, and experimented with coats, pants and tops, too.

But the dresses, ranging from minis to gowns, still were the stars here. Azria wasn't afraid of calling attention to them, adding all sorts of embellishment - feathers, sequins and grosgrain ribbons - with varying degrees of success.

DKNY

Donna Karan showed off her handiwork with the fall DKNY collection with the theme of "eclectic glamour."

There was a '70s vibe to the bow blouses, slouchy wide-leg pants and floaty peasant dresses, but what really stood out were the knits, especially fringe sweater dresses. A silk georgette fringed skirt looked like individual pieces of yarn - camel, purple, gold and red. Those same colors were featured in the silk prints used for balloon-hem minidresses and plaids on jackets.

The DNKY collection targets a younger and trendier customer than her signature - and more expensive - Donna Karan label that will be shown to editors, stylists and retailers. DKNY also has men's clothes. Next season, Karan is offering them dark denim jeans with flannel wool blazers worn with cardigans underneath.

Tracy Reese

Tracy Reese's refined look returned in a series of ladylike outfits that were just edgy enough to advance the designer's signature style.

Thanks to some bright colors, asymmetrical details and a mix of unexpected prints, the fall collection felt new, but underneath was Reese's core piece: the all-occasion frock.

The highlights of the show, held at the tents at Bryant Park, came at the beginning and end: a sheath with a draped neckline in a light-blue abstract rose print and a shift dress in a pink-and-black rhododendron print.

She also mixed florals with paisleys, and paisleys with animal prints for a shot of youthfulness.

Rock & Republic

Rock & Republic is all about gangster chic for fall.

With an orchestra - complete with a shiny baby grand piano on the runway - providing much of the 1970s rock 'n' roll soundtrack, sleek black suits dominated the runway Saturday night. Other old-school, underworld classics, such as fedoras, trenchcoats and watchman jackets, brought the mafia looks of yesteryear to an audience that included Joss Stone, Christina Milian and Tyson Beckford.

The toy-gun accessory worn in a holster on slim, low-slung black trousers was too literal and unnecessary. But the suits, especially those for women, looked right on target.

The palette here was limited, mostly black, gray and the occasional flash of deep purple.

The collection by creative director Michael Ball and input by new designer David Cardona certainly fit in with the rock 'n' roll look emerging as a trend, but some audience members mused after the show - what happened to the denim that made this label famous?

Lela Rose

So, you wanted a little practicality with your luxury next season? Check out Lela Rose's washed-taffeta pullover jacket or wool duffel coat with cashmere sleeves.

The Dallas-based Lela Rose tried to walk a fine line with her fall collection presented Sunday: They were clothes for real life - tweed skirts and a sweatshirt dress - but with more sparkle than most women normally have in their wardrobe.

One of the trends emerging at the Bryant Park tents are strapless dresses, and Rose had her fair share. For dressier occasions, they're worn on their own, but they're being adapted for more casual wear with knit tops underneath them - a new take on the layered look.

Another look gaining steam is the one-shouldered dress, and Rose tapped into that with grid-print sheath dress worn with a belt and a more feminine tiered dress in delicate ivory gazar.

Ashleigh Verrier

Did anyone say economic downturn? Not for Ashleigh Verrier's customers.

The fall collection she offered Saturday night was full of fancy dresses for women whose calendars are packed with parties, going against the tide in the early daysof Fashion Week which had adopted a serious, or at least edgy, tone.

She took cues from the opulence of imperial Russia - with all its glitz and glamour - and said backstage that she's "all about the sophisticatd lady."

This lady wears a chocolate-brown taffeta shift with a sweetheart neckline lined with jewels or a navy velvet minidress with ruffled short sleeves, also with crystals around the neck.

Verrier noted, however, that the Russians, and especially Peter Faberege - he of the famous eggs - also had a bohemian side. That came through in a sheer iridescent peasant blouse in pink chiffon worn with a brown taffeta tiered skirt.